Knit Care: Four Fundamentals to Know About Pilling

pilling in a nutshell

Pilling is a term you may have heard of, and a condition you’ve probably already encountered. But do you know what pilling really means? Pills are unwanted and undesirable small clumps or balls of yarn that form, to a greater or lesser degree, on the surface of almost all knitted fabrics. Its presence spoils the appearance of knitwear, giving it a tired, worn and poorly maintained look. So what can you do about pilling? You can start by understanding your four fundamentals: 1. the causes of pilling; 2. where pilling is likely to occur; 3. ways you can minimize pilling; and 4. how you can safely dispose of the pills.

1. What causes pilling?

Abrasion, or friction, from normal use and cleaning of the woven fabric can cause the yarn to separate. When this happens, the short fibers break free, freeing themselves from the longer fibers of the twisted yarn. The loose ends of these short fibers clump together into what look like little balls. These balls are what we recognize as little balls and their appearance in knitted fabric is what we call pilling. Often small pieces of fluff get caught in the clumps, making the pills look even more pronounced.

2. Where is pilling likely to occur on a knitted garment?

Since abrasion is the catalyst for pilling, those areas of your knit garments that are subject to the most friction are the areas most likely to pill. This would include the underarm area of ​​sweaters, jackets, vests, and dresses; the bottom of the sleeves; the heels of the socks; and the inner thigh area of ​​shorts and pants.

If you wear knit tops and sit at a desk all day, the areas of your top that come into regular contact with your desk or a computer can also develop unsightly pilling. These include the cuff or wrist area of ​​a long sleeve that rubs against the edge of a computer keyboard; the elbow area of ​​a sleeve if you, like many people, tend to rest your elbow on your desk while talking on the phone; and the front trunk area of ​​a top that routinely rubs against the edge of a desk or other work surface.

Some of these areas of clothing are so notorious for their propensity for pilling and premature wear that reinforcement can be added. Examples include sweaters that are made, from scratch, with suede elbow patches. In jodhpurs, jodhpurs worn while engaged in equestrian activities, leather replaces woven fabric on the inside of the calves, knees, and occasionally a panel in the rump area. Socks are often woven from a mixture of animal and non-animal fibers that give stability to the finished items.

3. How can pilling be minimized?

If you are knitting your own fabric for garments that will have areas subject to abrasion, then you will want to be careful in your yarn selection. Start by inspecting the thread, especially if it’s thread you haven’t worked with in the past, and read the manufacturer’s label. If the band on the ball indicates that the fabric should be hand cleaned or dry cleaned, then you can assume that the yarn is delicate and may pill more easily than a stronger yarn. The same applies to a garment purchased with similar washing instructions on the care label.

Then, manipulate a short length of thread. Wind a strand of yarn back and forth between your fingers to determine how easily the strand separates into component strands. Short animal fibers will release more easily if the strand separates easily. In general, the higher the number of plies and the more twisted the yarn, the less likely you are to experience significant pilling. In contrast, loosely twisted yarns that separate easily when manipulated with the fingers are more likely to pill.

You don’t necessarily need to avoid delicate threads, although you may want to consider how they can be best utilized. Consider reinforcing susceptible areas of the garment by working with some nylon thread of the same colour. Perhaps you could weave with a double thread, augmenting a delicate thread by weaving it together with a more durable yarn strand. Or, perhaps, you can choose to reserve the most delicate threads for garments that support less stress.

Avoid machine washing whenever possible. The best laundering option is to wash your knitted garments by hand, even if the yarn or garment manufacturer indicates that machine washing or drying is acceptable. When washing by hand, be careful to squeeze the fabric, but not to twist, wring or rub it. Remember, abrasion causes pilling, so you don’t want to subject your knitwear to any undue friction or stress while washing by hand.

Dry cleaning is often an alternative, albeit more expensive, to hand washing. Before dry cleaning a garment, be sure to check the ball band or garment care label for any contraindications. When you leave your garment in the hands of a dry cleaner, take the time to discuss the knit garment with its cleaner, noting the types of fibers it is constructed of and any special notes from the manufacturer regarding care and cleaning.

If machine washing, turn the garment inside out and wash on the gentle cycle with equally delicate items that have little tendency to shed. Setting the water level to a large load size, but washing only a medium size load, will allow your knit to move more freely during agitation. With more space in the machine and more water to surround the garment, it will be subject to less friction and therefore less likely to pill. Fabric softeners tend to reduce static cling. Therefore, adding a liquid fabric softener to the wash cycle will not only soften your knitted garment, but it will also decrease the attraction of lint. Pills that develop will be less noticeable than if they were entangled with hair or lint from other laundry items.

4. How can pills be disposed of safely?

There are a number of tools you can use to remove pilling from your knits, and they all share some general guidelines on their use and garment preparation. Begin by placing the garment on a hard, flat surface. When possible, position the garment so that only a single thickness of the fabric remains on the work area. Use one of the tools listed below to remove the pills. As you work, you’ll want to take your time, use a light touch, and keep the fabric taut in the area you’re waxing. Until you know how a given tool will work on a particular garment, it’s best to test it on a small, inconspicuous area, like the underarm of a sweater. In general, work in only one direction (eg, from top to bottom, but not back and forth). However, if you are removing pills with a sweater shaver, use small circular motions. Regardless of the tool you are using, make sure your work area is well lit and that you have a clear view while working on the fabric.

Special Purpose Tools:

These devices are specifically designed to remove pills. They are available at most sewing and craft stores and are generally safe when used according to their instructions and the guidelines listed above.

* sweater shavers

* sweater stones (light grade pumice stones)

* hair removal combs (very fine tooth combs for fabric)

Safe multipurpose tools:

There are a couple of other tools that, while not specifically made for hair removal, do remove pills effectively. They are generally safe to use on your knits when you carefully and carefully apply the above guidelines.

* Commercial fine grit sandpaper (150-180 or higher)

* Velcro (the side with the “hooks”)

Don’t forget to test in a small spot, work in one direction only, and keep a light touch.

Riskiest multipurpose tools:

A couple of other tools can and have been used to remove pilling from knits. However, these tools carry a higher risk of cutting or damaging the underlying fabric and should be used with caution. Again, it’s important that you follow the guidelines above when using one of these (or any of) pill removal tools.

* disposable razors

* scissors

When stripping, be especially careful around cable knits, embroidery, crochet edges, seams, buttons/buttonholes, and other stitches so as not to cut the threads. If you don’t have a steady hand or feel uncomfortable removing the pills, ask your local dry cleaner. Many cleaners will offer waxing as a service if you request it; Be prepared, of course, to pay for this service.

With a little common sense and consistent care, your knits will look fresh and last long enough to become a “treasured friend.”