How to change the engine oil and filter in a Peugeot 205 Diesel part one
The Peugeot 205 is a great little car. The original ‘hot-hatch’ – They were immensely popular from the time they were introduced in 1983, due to their styling, performance and nimble handling. The reliability of the diesel versions is legendary, and there are still plenty of well-maintained examples on the road today.
The cost of running a car has increased tremendously over the last decade, and even owners of a budget car like the 205 diesel need to cut unnecessary costs wherever possible. An easy way to accomplish this is to do your own oil changes.
The 205 diesel engine has a reputation for being virtually unbreakable, but only if the engine oil and filter are replaced every 6,000 miles. This is an easy job to do and will only take about half an hour. Oils and filters can be purchased cheaply at any motor factory or auto parts store. I recommend that you use semi-synthetic oil, as it is more durable than regular mineral oil and only slightly more expensive.
Before you begin, make sure you assemble all the things you’ll need. These are:
1) 5 liters of semi-synthetic oil for diesel engines
2) New Oil Filter (FRAM P/N PH5566A)
3) New 16mm copper washer for sump plug
4) Old dishwasher
5) latex gloves
6) Newspaper
7) Kitchen paper
8) Tool for sump plug (17mm wrench or 8mm square for turbo engine)
9) Oil filter removal strap
I also like to flatten a cardboard box to kneel on.
First, the car should be parked on a flat, level surface, ideally in a garage, but if not, choose a day when the wind is not blowing. Start the engine and allow it to reach near normal operating temperature, then shut it off. This is because old oil will drain faster when it is warm. Next, put on your gloves, open the hood and loosen the oil filler cap on top of the engine. It’s orange in color, has two spring clips holding it in place, and the dipstick runs down the middle. The filler cap is located at the top of the engine. Now spread newspaper under the car to catch any drippings and place the wash basin under the sump plug. It is located in the lowest part of the engine. If you’re lucky enough to have the turbo version, use the 8mm square drive found in a socket to turn the sump plug counterclockwise; otherwise you will need a 17mm box or socket wrench. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE. The oil can be hot enough to burn you and will spurt out very quickly when you remove the plug. The oil will stop dripping in a few minutes.
In the meantime, carefully move the wash bowl towards you so that it is now also under the oil filter. On the non-turbo engine, there is good access to the filter, and you can easily wrap the strap around it and unscrew it, turning it counterclockwise again. Note that hot oil will spill out of the filter when you remove it, and it should be kept upright until you can drain it into the flushing pan. However, this is not the case with the turbo engine. Access to the oil filter is very limited and I find that I cannot remove it by normal means. The way I remove the filter sounds drastic, but it works. What I do, leaning into the engine compartment, is gently tap two long, thin screwdrivers through the top of the filter and down, positioned diametrically opposite each other, and just as close to the sides of the filter can. as possible. I then place a short metal bar on top of the filter and turn it counterclockwise until it makes contact with the two blades of the screwdriver. By holding the screwdriver handles upright with one hand, I have enough support to twist the filter with the other and loosen it. Once loosened it twists the rest of the way using my fingers. If you examine the filter after it is off, you will see that this method cannot cause any damage to the engine.
Now you’re halfway there…
Now it’s time to put everything back together. Start by cleaning the sump plug and then put the new copper washer on it. Now clean around the plug hole with kitchen paper, before screwing the plug back in (clockwise) until hand tight. Use the tool to tighten it an additional 3/4 turn and you’re good to go. Do not tighten more than this as it can distort the metal and cause an oil leak. Next, clean up the used oil around the filter housing, being careful not to get any dirt into the hole. Take the new filter out of its box and look at the bottom. You will see a thick black rubber sealing ring. It should be lubricated with a little new engine oil before mounting. The easy way to do this is to dip the tip of a gloved finger into the new oil and then ‘paint’ around the rubber ring until it looks obviously oily. Now turn the new filter (clockwise) being careful not to cross it at first. Continue turning the filter slightly by hand until resistance is felt, then turn it an additional 1/2 turn. There is no need to over-tighten, and doing so alone would make it very difficult to remove at the next service interval.
At this point, you are ready to put the new oil in the engine. The engine requires 4.5 liters of oil in total, so you’ll find it helpful to put 4 liters in right away. It can be difficult to pour a full bottle of oil without spilling anything, so go slowly, giving the oil time to drain out of the filler opening, otherwise it could bubble and splatter over the side. If you are using a funnel you need to be very careful with this as you could easily lose an entire funnel due to this effect. After having the first 4 liters, it is time to start the engine and distribute the new oil inside. There will be a slight delay in oil pressure buildup until the new filter has been filled, so the oil warning light may stay on for a few seconds at first. Run the engine for one minute, then turn it off and let it run for at least 5 minutes. This gives the oil time to settle back into the sump, and then you can get a proper reading on the dipstick. Pull the dipstick out of the oil filler cap and carefully wipe it clean with kitchen paper. Now push the rod all the way into its slot and pull it out again. This time, you will be able to see how much the new oil has risen between the two notches. The dipstick looks a bit like a thin, flat strip of steel; be sure to look both ways to get the actual reading. A reading anywhere between the upper and lower level marks means the engine has enough oil to run without damage, but you should always try to keep your engine oil at or just below the upper mark. This is due to two reasons: the greater the amount of oil, the more fresh oil in the engine, but in addition, the oil serves to cool the parts of the engine that water cannot reach. So oil actually plays two vital roles in the engine: lubrication and cooling.
Getting the oil to the correct level on the dipstick can be a bit tricky, and you have to be careful not to overfill with oil; at best, the engine will expel excess oil through its breather tubes and into the air. filter; At worst, it can cause the oil seals to burst and subsequently leak. Just keep adding a bit more oil and then let it sit for a minute before cleaning the stick and checking again. It helps to know that the clear window on the side of the oil bottle is marked in 1/4 liter sections, so you know how much has already gone into the engine. However, don’t pour 4.5 liters directly in there, because there is always some of the old oil left in the engine.
Now is the time to order. Wipe up any spilled oil on the engine with kitchen paper and place it in a plastic bag with the old filter. I then pour the used oil into old plastic milk bottles ready to take to the recycling center. The same with the newspaper and the cardboard that I have used. Under no circumstances should oil or anything contaminated with oil be disposed of as household waste, or poured into any drain. It must be disposed of properly.
That’s all now. She cleans her tools, washes her hands and goes for a walk. Notice how the engine sounds smoother and pulls a little more enthusiasm – you could almost think it’s saying thanks! And you just saved a ton of money and put in the best oil! Enjoy…